Thursday, 28 April 2011

Road Trip: Desert (Part 3)

Part 3: As we left the West Coast at sunrise, we had been on the road for just under 2 weeks, and had about a week left to get all the way home. Continuing North, following the Cape-Namibia route...
The famous Namaqualand daisies are a highlight of this route in springtime. If this had only been the right time of year... the slopes and roadsides pictured below would be carpeted in gorgeous wild flowers!
The Orange River forms the border between South Africa and Namibia. Approaching the crossing, the terrain becomes extremely dramatic. Down past towering rocks, we crossed the bridge over a torrential looking, brown Orange river.
After a couple of failed attempts to leave the border post, involving being sent back to square one due to the lack of the right rubber stamps, we were finally gratefully spat out the other side and released into a typical Namibian roadscape. The Namib desert, with sparse scrubby vegetation stretching as far as the eye can see. Big skies, and distant mountains. Freedom again!
That night, we made it all the way to the Fish River Canyon. In the late afternoon, we found we had the entire visitor's centre to ourselves, Hot, empty and utterly still , this was the perfect way to experience the unique atmosphere here.
The view from the platform: the amazing canyon, with the Fish River winding through it. Silent, and ancient, and difficult to do justice to with a mere digital image...
Here is a panorama that Tiennie photographed and stitched together. I thought about trying to remove the jagged edges, but decided to leave them. Trying to give a bit of scale, I am seated near the edge of the canyon, just an insignificant scrap of  humanity!
I'm not very good at heights, and during the taking of these photos, was quite convinced that I might be about to topple over right into the Fish River Canyon, yet photographic evidence shows I was pretty far from the edge!

Here is a photo of our car, doing its impression of a lunar module on a barren moonscape, watched by us two lonely shadowy beings.
 What else could grow in this inhospitable landscape, but the iconic Quiver Tree of Namibia!
After an exhausting day of driving and sightseeing, we put up our tent in the campsite, packing up again extremely early the next morning to continue on the seemingly endless road north.. We were rewarded on this day when we crossed the Tropic of Capricorn - finally approaching our own more familiar latitudes - still a long way to go, though!!
Slowly the desert regions gave way to more of a woodland zone, and we decided to follow a road sign that read simply "Meteorite".  Here is a photo of this bizarre block of extra terrestrial matter, which fell to earth many years ago, implanted itself in Namibian soil, and has been left there ever since, for people to be intrigued by!
Day 3 in Namibia, and we were almost at the Botswana border... here we stayed a night at Mahangu Lodge alongside the Kavango river, and although we could only afford camping , we still managed an afternoon on the water, and a wonderful dinner on this deck, just above the fast flowing, flooded river.
Next day, we crossed over onto Botswana soil again! A quick business and catch-up visit in the border town of Shakawe, where we filled our car up with the 'wrong' type of petrol (nothing else on offer!!) and we were on our way again - a long, long way, bypassing the Okavango delta, and going on on towards the Makgadikgadi area. A flat, arid region dotted with signature palm trees...
Our next destination: a top favourite on this blog,  Planet Baobab, was where we spent our last 2 nights, to unwind after all the driving and just totally relax. It has become our traditional place to go every year in March in the quiet season. Here is an idea of the magnificence of one of the huge baobabs.
I've posted favourite photos of Planet Baobab in the past 2 years of annual visits, and  despite the fact that I took lots more again, I will just link back to the earlier blog posts, or this post might never end:
First visit to Planet Baobab in 2009 - Part 1
2009 - Part 2
2010 - return visit

On the way home, the now traditional landmark - The Termite Mound. It was a bit difficult to decide this year if it had grown or not. However, I did feel, when up close to it, that it had changed shape in a subtle way.
After that, it was a short hop - 400km home, to finish the orange section marked on the map below - safely arriving back at our starting point of 17 days earlier - much rested, extremely relaxed, and ready for all the chaos that being absent from here for so long entails..
More than a month later, and I think I might have finally caught up! I've also really enjoyed compiling my 3 part journal, and sorting through the numerous photos and memories. I'm sure it must be time to plan another holiday! (wishfully thinking?), but until then - I'll give this page a break, and will be back just as soon as I can.. many mid week greetings to all reading this blog!

12 comments:

Angela said...

What an incredible journey! I think I am more exhausted than you! On all your photos you are smiling and looking so relaxed, what a happy sight. You are right, just a digital photo cannot give this landscape credit. One should look around and around! And feel the air and the sun and the dust. I also once crossed the Capricorn line, what a feeling. I wish I could sit at your home on the floor and look at every picture you took. Wonderful views, thank you for these posts, Karen!

LindyLouMac said...

I have enjoyed so much this virtual trip Karen, thanks so much for sharing in words and photos.

Lori ann said...

Oh Karen, I know just how you felt sitting on the edge of that gorgeous canyon, heights do that to me too.

We had wanted to take that Namibian road (but ran out of time) the last time we were in the area. It is defintely our next African country to visit. I loved seeing your photos, the landscape is amazing.

I'm so glad you had the chance to stay at Planet Baobab and get your well deserved rest in. Every time I look at a Baobab (in my books) I think of you.
xoxo

Anonymous said...

tsk - damn
now I want to finish BBJ and do the south of Namibia
** sigh ** grump **
don't know when

I loved your trip and I adore Tiennie's pana pic!! FABULOUS

Dumdad said...

Great blogpost. Your side of the world has everything - including meteorites! No warthogs to be seen but they were no doubt hiding behind the meteorite.

Dumdad said...

Blogger is now ignoring my WordPress site and flicking to my blogger one although I chose name/url etc. Grrrrr.

http://theothersideofparis.wordpress.com/

e said...

Fabulous, Karen! I wish I had as diverse an environment to be in...

Barbara said...

The SKY is the most impressive part of these pictures. It's never that blue here.

Red Dirt Lattes said...

Gorgeous photos! I miss the skies. Africa is calling me back.

malonetravels2 said...

Epic!

Angela said...

Thanks for always faithfully coming to my blog, Karen! I love to be connected to you!

Anil P said...

Lovely account.

The picture (fourth from the top) of the road thinning out at the far end, below the blue sky full of clouds is a great one. Enlarged, it'd be a fine scene on the wall.

The Baobab, well, it's almost like standing before a big elephant. Quite a treee.

I like the small amphitheatre built around the meteorite.